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The Art of Hospitality

The Art of Hospitality

The conference Identità Milano 2018 provided yet another opportunity to delve into an exciting discussion on the Art of Hospitality, during an event organised by Ferrari Trento in partnership with The World’s 50 Best Restaurants featuring some of the best restaurant managers in the world according to its ranking. A stimulating debate took place with Will Guidara, partner and director of the Eleven Madison Park, Massimo Bottura, chef and owner of Osteria Francescana, and Josep Roca, dining room manager and co-owner with his two brothers of the El Celler de Can Roca.

Will Guidara and Josep Roca, winners of the Ferrari Trento Art of Hospitality Award in 2016 and 2017, respectively opened and closed a day of events entirely devoted to the topic “Identità di Sala” (the identity of the dining room), where the biggest names of the Italian restaurant and hotel world and the related training industry shared their views, agreeing on the fundamental role played by maîtres, sommeliers, and waiters in the functioning of a restaurant.

The Art of Hospitality at Identità Golose

Identità Golose, 3/5 March 2018

Photogallery

Carlo Cracco at the Ferrari Trento stand
Carlo Cracco at the Ferrari Trento stand
Identità Golose 2018
Josep Roca at Identità di Sala
Identità Golose 2018
Will Guidara of Eleven Madison Park at Identità di Sala
Identità Golose 2018
Thomas Piras, Alessandro Pipero, Giuseppe Palmieri with Matteo and Camilla Lunelli
Thomas Piras, Alessandro Pipero, Giuseppe Palmieri with Matteo and Camilla Lunelli
Identità Golose 2018
Massimo Bottura during the panel dedicated to the Art of Hospitality
Identità Golose 2018
The panel dedicated to the Art of Hospitality
Identità Golose 2018
Will Guidara from Eleven Madison Park at Identità Golose
Will Guidara from Eleven Madison Park at Identità Golose
Identità Golose 2018
The Hôtellerie panel
Identità Golose 2018
Will Guidara, Josep Roca, Massimo Bottura, Matteo Lunelli, Laura Price at the Art of Hospitality panel
Identità Golose 2018
Josep Roca, Oscar Farinetti, Antonio Santini, Francesco Cerea and Matteo Lunelli
Josep Roca, Oscar Farinetti, Antonio Santini, Francesco Cerea and Matteo Lunelli
Identità Golose 2018
Josep Roca at Identità di Sala
Identità Golose 2018
Alessandro Pipero and Giuseppe Palmieri with Paolo Marchi
Identità Golose 2018
Josep Roca, Federico De Cesare Viola and Matteo Lunelli
Josep Roca, Federico De Cesare Viola and Matteo Lunelli
Identità Golose 2018
Camilla and Matteo Lunelli with Francesco Cerea
Identità Golose 2018
Francesco Cerea at the "Identità di Sala" panel
Identità Golose 2018
"The importance of training in the hospitality business" panel
Identità Golose 2018
The panel dedicated to the Art of Hospitality with Guidara, Roca and Bottura
Identità Golose 2018
"The importance of training in the hospitality business" panel
Identità Golose 2018
Josep Roca, Will Guidara, Laura Price, Matteo Lunelli, Massimo Bottura, Paolo Marchi, Federico De Cesare Viola
Josep Roca, Will Guidara, Laura Price, Matteo Lunelli, Massimo Bottura, Paolo Marchi, Federico De Cesare Viola
Identità Golose 2018
Livia, Mario and Alfonso Iaccarino at Identità di Sala
Identità Golose 2018
Davide Oldani with Beniamino Garofalo
Identità Golose 2018
The panel “Hôtellerie: a five-star service” of Identità di Sala
The panel “Hôtellerie: a five-star service” of Identità di Sala
Identità Golose 2018
Josep Roca and Will Guidara during the panel dedicated to the Art of Hospitality
Identità Golose 2018
Antonio Santini, Roberto and Francesco Cerea at Identità di Sala
Identità Golose 2018

The Art of Hospitality according to...

Will Guidara
Eleven Madison Park - New York, USA

The restaurant should never be a sanctuary reserved to the chef, but rather a place for the customer and the chef to meet through the dining room. The key of hospitality lies in kindness, in the nobility of kind gestures. Being genuinely kind strongly affects people: "You get what you give".

Josep Roca
El Celler de Can Roca - Girona, Spagna

Only when the staff in the kitchen is open to the inputs coming from the dining room do all the pieces combine to create the perfect outcome. Cooking means taking care, serving means loving. An experience involving food and wine must be staged as a choreography of emotions, never forgetting to play with the senses, something that requires full harmony between customer, kitchen, and dining room staff. I define myself as a "waiter of wines"; I feel like a waiter and I love attending to the needs of my customers.

Laura Price
The World's 50 Best Restaurants

The concept of hospitality has deeply changed over the years. Customers are now much more open to casual experiences. This is not to say that the concept of fine dining has disappeared. The entry in The World's 50 Best Restaurant of establishments such as the Cosme in New York or The Clove Club in London is a confirmation of this: both restaurants play on a strong hospitality built in the framework of a relaxed and casual environment.

Massimo Bottura
Osteria Francescana - Modena

We have customers who come from the other side of the world just to eat in our restaurant and fully discover our country. What is important to them is the whole experience we offer. When they taste a dish, they wish to taste our territory.

Hôtellerie: a five-star service

Marco Amato and Francesco Apreda
Hassler, Ristorante Imago - Roma

What happens in the dining room reflects what happens in the kitchen. The human component has the potential of forging strong bonds and, even in hotels, hospitality can be exploited to attract not only the tourists but the locals too.

Ermanno Zanini and Andrea Migliaccio
Capri Palace, Ristorante L'Olivo - Capri

Even those that wipe clean a wine glass play a fundamental role in the customer experience. Paying attention to the smallest of details requires an incredible level of involvement by the staff, which is only possible when they have a margin of creative freedom that goes beyond strict procedural guidelines.

Luca Finardi and Antonio Guida
Mandarin, Ristorante Seta - Milano

The real challenge is "entertaining" the customers by establishing a comfortable atmosphere and telling the best possible story about your cocktails or dishes and conveying real emotions.

Dining room and Kitchen: a family success-story

Antonio Santini
Ristorante Dal Pescatore - Canneto sull’Oglio, Mantova

Family and the Italian identity are to be understood in a socio-cultural context: all around the world, Italian families are a synonym for hospitality and kindness. But simply because an activity is family-based, it does not mean that it cannot be professionalised. It often happens that the best maîtres and sommeliers are those who have built their background in big family-driven restaurants. Young people have to get back into the dining room business, because here is where you meet the world.

Roberto and Francesco Cerea
Ristorante Da Vittorio - Brusaporto, Bergamo

The service in the dining room turns into a rewarding experience when it can count on a prime-quality kitchen, but when it is not the case, the staff in the dining room plays an even bigger role, because it must go to the rescue of less-than-perfect dishes.

Livia, Alfonso and Mario Iaccarino
Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890 - Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, Napoli

You can understand what goes on in a restaurant just by looking at the quality of its dining room service, which is also a great life-coaching experience and a way to learn about the world. The ultimate goal must be to be generous and "put your soul into what you are doing" without becoming servants, but seducing the customers. They have to leave already wishing to come back.

Big numbers, prime quality

Francesco and Salvatore Salvo
Pizzeria Salvo - San Giorgio a Cremano, Napoli

The people working in the dining room have to be properly trained and, even in a pizzeria, they must cater to the customers’ needs and work in sync. That is why our waiters intern at Michelin-starred restaurants.

Luca Zaccheroni and Omar Casali
Ristorante Marè di Cesenatico

In a reality like ours, where the time of the day determines the atmosphere and the type of customers, it is pivotal to have a staff that can properly convey the mission of the restaurant, as well as have a great deal of flexibility and horizontal skills.

Michele Marcucci
Enoteca Marcucci, Pietrasanta - Lucca

We are neither a restaurant nor a wine bar. We pride ourselves on being different and therefore our hospitality is different too, in constant evolution, characterised by continuous changes and rich in initiatives involving food and wine as well as the arts and culture. We want to build a sense of closeness and cosiness that fully involves the customers and friends coming to our establishment.

The importance of training in the hospitality business

Hervé Fleurie
Institute Paul Bocuse

Serving food in a dining room requires sharing the emotions of the clients and seeing the room through their eyes. It is a form of art linked to the ability to create a feeling, meet the desires, and solve issues. Analysing and learning the rules of the service is the basis of this endeavour, as rules can only be broken when they are well known. Our staff must be able to express their identities through the service, as it is precisely their behaviour and style that determine everything else.

Andrea Sinigaglia
ALMA

Caring for others is a mission; it is a component of all social acts. We are currently witnessing the "renaissance" of the work in the dining room and, as in the original Renaissance, everything stems from the human component. As Master Marchesi said: "You need deep-rooted knowledge to improvise". Training schools serve this purpose; they kindle the passion of young people and allow them to fully express themselves.

Andrea Grignaffini
ALMA

In an increasingly technological world, where everything is strictly disciplined, the dining room represents the one place where character, empathy, ingenuity, and improvisation can flow freely. That is why it is so hard to teach this job in the classroom.

Dominga Catarella
Intrecci Alta Formazione di Sala

The work done in the dining room can be summed up with three words: elegance, character, and warmth. There cannot be a right or a wrong way to serve: what is important is to adapt to the situation.

Matteo Zappile
"Noi di Sala" association

Dishes do not get out of the kitchen on their own legs to walk to the table, which is why it is fundamental to have a professional that not only brings it to your table, but also presents it at best.

How to train and make a team

Matteo Zappile
Associazione Noi di Sala

Waiters must be humble, able to cooperate and great team players. More importantly, they must have the right attitude, which can often be revealed even just by the look in their eyes.

Alessandro Pipero
Ristorante Pipero - Roma

Not everyone can be a waiter: you need a strong passion, will, and identity. In this job, you cannot copy what someone else does. To become the best, you must be authentic. You need to be hungry for success, not searching for renown. The only way to get to the top is to work hard and have a genuine passion for the job.

Thomas Piras
Ristorante Contraste - Milano

Waiters must leave their ego outside the dining room, but always take their personality with them. They must become chameleons and change according to the situation that they are facing.